 Notice. New forum software under development. It's going to miss a few functions and look a bit ugly for a while, but I'm working on it full time now as the old forum was too unstable. Couple days, all good. If you notice any issues, please contact me. |
Forum Index : Windmills : Bearing supplier please
| Author | Message | ||||
Bushman Regular Member  Joined: 24/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 41 |
Can't find these in the supplier catalogues, so can anyone please provide manufacturer part numbers for the 56205 and 6005 bearings, also the F205 carrier? Or maybe suggest what scrap (car or whatever) components use these Thanks Alan |
||||
Gizmo Admin Group  Joined: 05/06/2004 Location: AustraliaPosts: 5116 |
OK I phoned my mate at the local bearing shop. He said the 6005 is a standard number, for all manufacturers, but you could add "Sealed Deep Grove Ball Bearing" to its name when you ask for it. Its a 25mm id 47mm od 12mm wide bearings, same as the one used by F&P in the washing machine. The other bearing and carrier are made by FAG ( what an unfortunate name for a company ). So ask for FAG bearing 56205, sometimes refered to as a Plumber Block Bearing or Transmission Bearing. The carrier can also be called a Flange Housing. The bearing itself has a ID of 25mm which suits the F&P shaft. Hope that helps. Glenn The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now. JAQ |
||||
| Bushman Regular Member Joined: 24/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 41 |
Thanks Glen Really helpful info. There seems good reason to purchase these new bearings for use with the 65 mm section described in the DIY article. It would presumably be the strongest and most reliable arrangement. However,I did see some info on this forum about cutting out and rasping down the original FP bearing tube and locking it into a section of 75 mm RHS. This would be a lot less work. Any comments on this would be appreciated Cheers Alan |
||||
Robert_VK2BBR Regular Member Joined: 31/12/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 67 |
Bushman, I have had a mill up for some months based on 75mm rhs, I cut the block with a tenon saw to be close then finished off with an auto body file like a rasp. I made it a tight fit, I also removed the f&p seal from the shaft. I also have another that I turned down in a lathe to fit inside some 100mm pipe. Both seem to work fine, althought I have no fancy bearing mill to compare with. The rhs is better in my opinion as it resists the whole thing turning inside the housing. Robert 1555 W grid connect system since Jan 08 both vehicles running on modified, used vege oil. |
||||
| brucedownunder2 Guru  Joined: 14/09/2005 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1548 |
This is the way I mounted the cut out section of nylon bearing housing from the F&P bowl.. Sabre saw it out first ,roughly. Then with a sharp spokeshave ,trim the edges to make a firm fit inside a "carrier(this one is stainless steel tube ) .. Pop rivet it in a couple places and move on from there. 
Have fun,,Bruce Bushboy |
||||
| Gizmo Admin Group Joined: 05/06/2004 Location: AustraliaPosts: 5116 |
Hi Guys Yes using the plastic bearing holder in a piece of RHS is a good idea. When I drew up that design I wanted something with a stronger front bearing, as my old mill used the standard 6005 bearing on the front behind the turbine, and it did wear out after 1 year, seized up and starting slipping on the stainless shaft. The 56205 bearing suits the F&P shaft and is a tough little bugger. So if you do use the 6005 at the front, make sure its a new bearing and put a drop of locktight on the shaft so there is no chance of the bearing slipping ( the 56205 has a grub screw ). Also it pays to drill a couple of holes in the RHS and screw a couple of self tappers into the plastic, just as a bit more security. Good to see all these F&P windmills popping up 
Glenn The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now. JAQ |
||||
| Robert_VK2BBR Regular Member Joined: 31/12/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 67 |
Bruce the pic is good. I have one for you on the other end of the spectrum, this is my rough as guts version. It is fixed to a tree facing south. The blades are from a shell 44 gallon drum, but they are not stiff enough. I wanted something up in a couple of hours, and it is still working fine, though I dont think it will last forever. cheers Robert  1555 W grid connect system since Jan 08 both vehicles running on modified, used vege oil. |
||||
| brucedownunder2 Guru Joined: 14/09/2005 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1548 |
Hey Robert,, very Innovative,,reminds me of the machines out of "mad Max". I actually whacked up a set of similar sheet steel blades at work years ago. cut them with a jigsaw and rounded off the leading edge across a wood pallet outside my workshop at work. Had an audience within 1/2 an hour ..Man, you should have heard all the white shirts and suit's advice ,,,made me go slow on the noisy jigsaw,lol.. Remember ,you guy's , Trevor makes a very nice Aluminium cast hub that slides onto the f&P spline ..makes your project a lot easier ,as the hub 's 3 blade holders are cast at the correct angle --all you have to do is bolt on your blades and balance. Bruce Bushboy |
||||
| Bushman Regular Member Joined: 24/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 41 |
Thanks guys - can't get over how helpful you all are on this forum. Will definitely go with the original FP assembly. I rasped one down last night and will do as advised re locking it into the RHS. Glen - for interest, after you gave me the bearing part numbers, I called ABC bearings and was told the 56205 is listed as a UC205. The prices are (all plus GST: UC205 $27.76 Carrier $16.14 6005 $14.00 This is another reason to use the original FP assembly -a saving of over $60 Bruce - what reason for using a belt drive? Can understand it may lessen the vibration and provide adjustment, but doesn't it add complications in mounting and add to maintenance. I saw somewhere on this forum that an early Corolla tailshaft fits the FP spline and would be more inclined to use that with a mounting plate for the blades - comments appreciated Trevor - if you are reading this, what is the price of the cast hub please. If it slides straight onto the spline, it would save a lot of work Cheers Alan |
||||
wind friend Newbie  Joined: 01/05/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 39 |
hi i am building a machine based around a trailor stub axle assy. comes complete with seals tapered bearings for handeling lateral thrust and a disk with either 4 or 5 holes that all you have to do is knock out the studs. for about $50 from stupid cheap auto parts(or a company that sounds just like it). hans |
||||
| Bushman Regular Member Joined: 24/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 41 |
Hello Hans Does the stub axle assembly fit the FP spline? Alan |
||||
| carl1 Regular Member Joined: 16/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 79 |
Hi Glenn I purchased 10x 6005LLU for 8.80A$ from Surplus Bearings, 4127 Qld , Phone 0738081995 Harald |
||||
| carl1 Regular Member Joined: 16/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 79 |
Hi Glenn 8.80A$ each Harald |
||||
| carl1 Regular Member Joined: 16/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 79 |
here are two pics of my version: F&P between car alternator halfs, and timing pulley with slots fixed with silcon into rotor. Harald
  |
||||
| brucedownunder2 Guru Joined: 14/09/2005 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1548 |
Gee Harald,,that looks nice. I see you have a small computer fan at the top ,,possibly above the bridge rectifier??. Your use of the alternator rectifier and case is very good ,,you now have the alternators mounting flanges to use. Could you post a few more pic's of the way you attached the shaft to the rotor ,,,and,, how hard is it to remove the rotor from the stator (I'm thinking of the magnetic attraction) ??. Like that ,,very neat.. Bruce Bushboy |
||||
| carl1 Regular Member Joined: 16/04/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 79 |
Hi Bruce, original F&P shaft with spline. Original F&P plastic nut to remove/adjust the rotor. more pics later. Harald |
||||
Trev Guru Joined: 15/07/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 676 |
Hi Bushman, The cast alloy prop hub with spline is $140. Check out the Foundry & Fibreglass page in Windmill Kits & Parts. Trev @ drivebynature.com |
||||
 Print this page |
 |
The Back Shed's forum code is written, and hosted, in Australia. | © JAQ Software 2025 |
