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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Homemade Pico Computer 3 clone

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Chopperp

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Posted: 09:02am 04 Aug 2026
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  PhenixRising said  
  Quote  I want to wire it with 30AWG wrap wire:


Been doing this recently. Fun for prototyping  


Hi
Any tips on doing this. My previous attemps of using this type of board have been rarther messy. Using the thin wire & a fine soldering iron would be a start I suppose.

Brian
ChopperP
 
PhenixRising
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Posted: 09:53am 04 Aug 2026
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I use the OK-Industries wrapping tool and at first, my results were mixed.
The trick is in threading the stripped portion into the tool correctly; insert the wire in the end of the tool but you want it to come outside the barrel of the tool.

With a bit of practice it becomes easier. The YT tutorials that I came across didn't show this, they went straight to wrapping.

I don't use the built-in stripper because it can cut too deep.

I have all kinds of wire strippers, including the overrated/over-priced Knipex stuff but the only one that can be set, reliably, to not touch the conductor is the plier-stripper:




It you nick the conductor, you will have a break during wrapping.

The other end of the wrapping tool is used for unwrapping. I'm now becoming quite proficient  
 
Chopperp

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Posted: 11:11am 04 Aug 2026
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OK
Thanks for that.
ChopperP
 
dddns
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Posted: 08:06pm 09 Aug 2026
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  Quote  
Any tips on doing this.

Good solder, patience, and the determination to keep working on a cable until it fits. I didn't quite follow that 100%, but it'll do for now. It looks okay under a magnifying glass.





 
EDNEDN
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Joined: 18/02/2023
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Posted: 03:08am 10 Aug 2026
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That is a very clean setup and wiring!!!    I'm surprised you would able to make it so 'simple' and clean.   There is hardly a single wire crossing another one.

Good job!!!
 
dddns
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Posted: 05:52am 10 Aug 2026
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Thank you! Because of the two missing rows of pins, I had to make a few compromises, but otherwise I tried to route the traces exactly as they are in the KiCad layout to replicate the electrical conditions as closely as possible.

Regards

Edit: I'll post an update of the KiCad files once I've debugged it
Edited 2026-08-10 15:53 by dddns
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 07:56am 10 Aug 2026
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Very neat indeed! It's also nice to see someone else designing around modules. USB hubs are a problem, there are very few "breakout" modules around. The one I use isn't on 0.1" pitch so it's a bit awkward to use unless you are building on a PCB - and even then the footprint dimensions don't appear to be published anywhere.
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
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Chopperp

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Posted: 11:24am 11 Aug 2026
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  Quote  Any tips on doing this.

Good solder, patience, and the determination to keep working on a cable until it fits.


dddns

This something of what I envisaged. Good job.
It did take me awhile to workout that you ran some of the wiring through vacant holes to the front side & then off eleswhere.

Thanks
ChopperP
 
dddns
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Posted: 04:27pm 11 Aug 2026
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Hi Mick, and thank you. I think modules are a real alternative and not “ridiculous.” They’ve proven millions of times over that they work, are electrically self-contained, and come with a built-in 100nF capacitor—which saves time :) They also carry less risk compared to JLC, which sometimes delivers defective units—which would be a pretty big loss if one out of five were defective. I think the PGA is quickly checked before it leaves production. I still have a hub like the one you describe and I’d like to build a snap-on module.

Hi ChopperP, doing it this way with vias that have only a start and an end point is the best solution in every respect. This board is drilled with 1mm, it's very easy to thread the cable through

I wired the supply voltage with thicker wire. That might not have been necessary. There are various opinions online, but I’m leaning toward this one—my wire appears to be made of copper, and it tin-plates very well.

So, 30 AWG is:
Outer diameter 0.635 mm
Conductor diameter 0.254 mm
Conductor cross-sectional area 0.051 mm²
The internet says up to 1A is possible. Google it yourself :)

A 2mm copper strip on a PCB with a usual thickness of 0.035mm equals 0.07mm²
Decide for yourself :))
Edited 2026-08-12 02:46 by dddns
 
Volhout
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Posted: 07:00pm 11 Aug 2026
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Only one remark:Peter uses a linear voltage regulator set to 1,3V for the 2350B core voltage to allow reliable overclocking. I am not sure if the 1.1V switching regulator inside the 2350PGA allows same overclocking.

You may be limitted in whar resolutions you can use.

Volhout
PicomiteVGA PETSCII ROBOTS
 
dddns
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Posted: 07:16pm 11 Aug 2026
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Hello Volhout, that's a really good point. Here's how I see it: I've had two PGAs since late 2024, and they've been through almost all the betas starting with 5.08. It turns out that my PGAs work very reliably up to 384 MHz, and in the winter, they can even go higher :)

At 378MHz they run super stable and that makes me think it could work.
I hope tomorrow I can say more..

Regards
Edited 2026-08-12 05:18 by dddns
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 08:58pm 11 Aug 2026
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The PGA uses a LDO linear regulator. NCP115AMX330TCG according to the circuit diagram.
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
javavi

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Joined: 01/10/2023
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Posted: 03:36pm 12 Aug 2026
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Hello everyone!
I also decided to build a Pico Computer 3 on a breadboard. So far, I've compactly arranged the existing modules on the breadboard, except for the Wi-Fi radio module.

The USB hub will connect directly to the USB-C port of the RP2350 module.
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 03:48pm 12 Aug 2026
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Does that HDMI module include the necessary resistors?
How have you hidden the USB-TTL converter to power it and give a console connection on GP8/GP9 while you are running it in USB host mode?
.
Edited 2026-08-13 01:53 by Mixtel90
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
javavi

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Posted: 03:53pm 12 Aug 2026
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@Mixtel90 Hi Mick,
This HDMI module doesn't have any additional components, just direct contacts. So I'll be soldering the resistors to the bottom of the board.
The USB-TTL serial port is hidden underneath the sound module. The SD card module is also hidden underneath the RP2350 module.
Edited 2026-08-13 01:55 by javavi
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 03:59pm 12 Aug 2026
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Neat. I'll watch this with interest. :)
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
javavi

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Posted: 04:05pm 12 Aug 2026
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@Mixtel90
I'll be using this externally connected USB hub. I've used it before when working with PicoMite USB firmware.

Now comes the long and painstaking soldering of each wire :(
Edited 2026-08-13 02:10 by javavi
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 04:19pm 12 Aug 2026
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I don't regard an external hub as cheating. :)  I do think the Adafruit HDMI module is a neater approach though. Mind you, that's only if you happen to have one...
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
dddns
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Posted: 08:16pm 13 Aug 2026
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Hi Javavi, I like compact designs, and yours looks promising. Please post a few pictures once you’ve made more progress with the wiring.

I planned to make my design pin- and chip-compatible with the original. Hopefully that’s the case, but there’s also the EEPROM on the DS3231 module and now an ESP01S as well.
A transparent TCP-SERIAL bridge is running or is supposed to run on the ESP8266. On my Linux computer, I’m running ser2net, which creates a virtual serial port that can then be accessed by, for example, PuTTY or XMODEM.

But that’s just one option for me to experiment with; I have a switch to conveniently toggle between USB UART and ESP, and another one to disconnect the ESP’s power supply.

I’m also thinking that the ESP, in station mode, could act as the Access point for the RM2. That would bring us even closer to the concept of an autonomous system.

I’m not entirely sure yet… but it worked out and was perfectly routable.
Here’s the final prototype for now, and I’ll post again if it’s up and running :)






 
lizby
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Posted: 12:07pm 14 Aug 2026
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@javavi -- nice work. Exactly which modules are you using (and what USB hub is that)?

Any reason not to have used the Adafruit DVI module, or the Aliex DVI "sock"?

I've just been thinking about a PCB for doing the same. I note that the price for the WeAct module has gone up considerably.
PicoMite, Armmite F4, SensorKits, MMBasic Hardware, Games, etc. on FOTS
 
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